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Bodacious Rosé

From Bandol to Barossa: New Releases from Spinifex, Pibarnon, Bondar & more...
Bodacious Rosé

Is there a better wine style to celebrate the joie de vivre of summer than rosé? The best examples encapsulate everything great about our food and wine culture. And they do it in a carefree, non-judgmental, inclusive—come and have a glass!—way that few other styles can match.

 

It's fitting, then, that it’s time for our annual rosé offer. Below is a selection jam-packed (but not jammy!) with beautiful wines and new releases. Party on.

The Wines

Babo Prosecco Rosé DOC 2020

Babo Prosecco Rosé DOC 2020

This is 89% Glera and 11% Pinot Noir from vineyards on the alluvial soils of San Martino al Tagliamento near Pordenone in Fruili. Justin Bubb crafts his Prosecco rosé in the regionally traditional Charmat method and leaves the blend on lees to build further complexity. The wine is bright and perfumed with big summer berry flavours, a soft, fleshy, zesty weight, and a cranberry-fresh finish. This will be right at home at any summer barbeque. 

The resultant wine has a persistent perlage, with a bouquet full of red and black berries and a fruity-fresh finish.

Babo Prosecco Rosé DOC 2020
Spinifex Rosé 2024

Spinifex Rosé 2024

Spinifex’s provençal-styled rosé is among the best this country offers, and 2024 is another stellar release. This year, the blend comprises Grenache (62%) and Mataro (38%) sourced from four dry-grown sites in Angaston, Ebenezer, Vine Vale and the southern end of the Bethany foothills. Soils vary across the sites from gravelly sand to red clay, and vine age ranges from 25 to 90 years. The (predominantly) bush vines are dry-grown. 

Each batch spent two to six hours on skins before being pressed to tank for fermentation. A small portion of the wine went through malolactic conversion, and maturation took place on lees in tank for six months. The resulting wine offers the kind of energy and snappy, crunchy lines that were once the exclusive domaine of the finest Provence rosés.

Spinifex Rosé 2024
Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2023

Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2023

Organic. 65% Mourvèdre, 35% Cinsault. Pibarnon’s distinctive Mourvèdre-rich rosé is drawn from the estate’s old, low-yielding vines set in the stunning amphitheatre of terraces amid the pine-covered hilltop of La Colline du Télégraphe. Altitude (at 300 metres, it is one of Bandol’s highest vineyards) and moderating sea breezes ensure cool nights and fresh conditions. But it’s not only elevation and proximity to the sea that make this vineyard so special; a peculiar soil type predominates: les marnes bleues. This uncommon and highly chalky, blue-tinted clay—rich in microfossils—is also encountered in Jura and Pomerol, where it is prized for its low pH, water-retentive properties and influence on a wine’s freshness and structure. The wine matured for six months in neutral oak, and the result encapsulates everything that’s so great about French wine culture. 

“A blend of 65% Mourvèdre and 35% Cinsault, the 2023 Bandol Rosé from Château de Pibarnon offers up a delicate, complex bouquet of spices, licorice, red berries, lemon, spring flowers and herbs. Medium-bodied, enveloping and beautifully structured, it’s round and juicy with a delicate, lively core of fruit and a mineral, calcareous finish. This is a classical rosé wine from Bandol.”
92+ points, The Wine Advocate
Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2023
Bondar Rosé 2024

Bondar Rosé 2024

Once again, Grenache plays the starring role in Bondar’s Rosé, weighing in at 91% of the blend with the balance Cinsault and Mataro. Most of the fruit comes from Andre and Selina Bondar’s Rayner vineyard, with a small portion of Grenache sourced from an old sandy site in Blewitt Springs. Most Grenache vines at the sandy Rayner Vineyard are 50 years old, with a small block of younger material also included in the mix. The Cinsault and Mataro are grown on the home site.

Andre uses a variety of techniques to build complexity and texture. The Grenache from the grower, young-vine Grenache from the Rayner vineyard and Cinsault fermented at cool temperatures to preserve bright, primary characters. Then, for weight, texture and savoury character, the older-vine Grenache from the Rayner vineyard and the Mataro fermented at warm temperatures in old oak. The result is a pure, fresh, layered rosé packed with juicy red fruit flavour, chalky, pithy grip and a refreshingly long watermelon drenched close. 


“A shimmering rose gold in hue, this continues the impeccable lineage of this wine, with flavours of cranberry, watermelon, tart redcurrant, subtle pink grapefruit and musk. As always, those flavours are suggestive, melding into each other, eschewing obviousness for refinement and effortless class. This is properly dry, with a gentle tug of savoury grip, set against a core of succulent fruit purity and finely tuned texture. Superb.”
96 points, Marcus Ellis, The Wine Companion
Bondar Rosé 2024
Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022

Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022

100% Pinot Noir from the Waipara Springs vineyard in Waipara, North Canterbury, which is sustainably farmed with no artificial chemicals or fertilisers. Old-vine 10/5 Clone Pinot Noir was planted in the early 1990s, and the site is managed by Pyramid Valley. The fruit was picked on 11th April. The grapes were pressed as whole bunches before fermenting with indigenous yeasts in a combination of concrete tulips and old puncheons. The wine aged on its ferment lees without sulphur for six months before blending in November. The notes below do not oversell this outstanding wine—we haven’t tasted a more exciting rosé from New Zealand. Structured and vinous it may be, yet it is also seriously addictive.

“The 2022 Rosé North Canterbury is produced from old vine 10/5 Pinot Noir clones planted in the late 1980s/early 1990s. Dry farmed, managed organically, whole-bunch pressed and fermented in concrete and old puncheons before spending six months on lees, the resulting wine is dry, full and savory. Unlike most rosés, it doesn’t focus on fruit but texture. It is complex and concentrated, firm and serious.”
95 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous
“Pale, pretty rosé with delicate cherry/berry, raspberry and wildflower flavours. Dry and delicate wine with appealing purity and a crisp, lingering finish. Serious, sophisticated rosé.”
94 points, Bob Campbell, The Real Review
“Good colour, orange-y, ruddy hue, though flavours are lighter than expected if not suggestively tinged with blood orange tang over red cherry and pomegranate juice. The perfume is attractive, more cherry, some flinty mineral notes, a touch of dried herbs. It has a nice, sinewy chew to it all, fine tannins finish the wine, a little juiciness mid palate for some added bandwidth. Decent drinking, but doesn’t deliver a more complex expression, though that’s sometimes not the point too, of course.”
91 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“Pinot noir clone 10/5 sourced from the Waipara Springs vineyard, planted in the early '90s and managed by Pyramid Valley. Onion skin and salmon in the glass with aromas of red apple, redcurrant, watermelon and raspberry with hints of red berry danish, crushed stone, pressed flowers, soft spice and crème fraîche. Ditto on the palate with a super sapid, salivating acid line finishing dry, savoury and downright delicious.”
93 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion
Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Rosé 2022
Bodegas Exopto Rioja Exopto Rosado 2023

Bodegas Exopto Rioja Exopto Rosado 2023

Exopto’s chalky rosé takes its textural cues and delicate pastel colour from the rosés of Tom Puyaubert’s homeland in France—specifically the best of the Côtes de Provence. In a region where rosé is mostly an afterthought, Exopto’s wine is sourced from proper real estate: Los Pozos, a single plot of mature 50-year-old vines in the chalky soils of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The blend is 50% Garnacha and 50% Tempranillo, and the fruit is crushed and pressed before fermenting in tank with natural yeasts. It ages mostly in large foudre on lees for up to six months. The result is a superbly bright and tangy rosado with silky white fruit hemmed by threads of citrus, subtle textural grip, and the kind of vibrant freshness to take the edge off a long day. Charcuterie sold separately.

Bodegas Exopto Rioja Exopto Rosado 2023
Domaine François Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2022

Domaine François Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2022

Chidaine’s juicy, full-flavoured dry rosé is predominantly Grolleau (70%), with the remainder Pinot Noir and Gamay. As with the Sauvignon above, the vines are rooted in the flint, clay and limestone soils of the Cher Valley between Tours and Orléans. Chidaine has little interest in copying the pale (or pallid?) Côtes de Provence model, so here the grapes are picked ripe and undergo a fair measure of skin contact before pressing and aging on lees in stainless steel. It’s a fleshy and refreshing rosé with waves of herb-infused red berries underpinned by some earthy-mineral notes from the Grolleau and the subtle textural grip that makes this such a great, food-orientated rose. Another bargain from one of France’s most revered winegrowers.

“Chidaine’s 2022 Rosé is a blend of Grolleau, Pinot Noir and Gamay. Bright and effusive, with tons of aromatic presence, the Rosé is immediately alluring. The interplay of aromatics, bright minerals and layered fruit makes for a delicious and beguiling Rosé that is absolutely delicious.”
90 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Domaine François Chidaine Touraine Rosé 2022

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