Camille’s new Domaine Bourgogne Blanc is drawn from La Sablière between Corgoloin and Comblanchien. The vines are 60 years old, and the wine is sensational, with lovely, pure, pulpy fruit (pear, honey, nuts) and terrific, mouth-watering freshness. It was raised in two barrels, one old and a Damy first used in 2021. 

The first vintage of the Domaine Bourgogne Rouge stems from the same vineyard as the white wine—and the vines are even older. The vineyard’s name, La Sablière, refers to the sandy clay soils, partly explaining this wine’s beautiful, lifted perfume of summer fruits and red flowers. The vines are 90 years old, some even older, and Camille ferments this wine in concrete with 40% whole bunches layered at the bottom of the tank (so that any punchdowns and pumpovers won’t break the whole berries). Simply a stellar wine for this level: elegant, pure-fruited and vivid with a pretty, lacy structure and crunchy finish. 

This comes from a small parcel of 60-year-old vines under the Domaine d’Ardhuy’s Clos des Langres in Corgoloin. The name Chagniots is often cited as a reference to small oak trees, though Chaignots denotes iron-rich minerals in the local patois, so here it could refer to the reddish soils high in iron oxide. This first release fermented with 40% bunches, and it’s delicious, sweet-fruited and seductive, yet with great class. It’s an expressive, character-filled red Burgundy for a great price.

This cuvée is from a small 0.8-hectare parcel within the larger Le Clos de Magny climat in Corgoloin. Thiriet’s plot is at the top of the slope at 350 metres and with very rocky soil. Surrounded by the forest, part of the vineyard is often in the shade, which Camille believes works in her favour in warmer years. Another idiosyncrasy is the mass of large boulders that run through the soil just under the surface. It all adds up to a unique terroir that gifts tiny berries and tiny, loose bunches, which in turn allows Camille to use 100% whole bunches. If you tried last year’s release, be advised that the new vintage is considerably finer and prettier. In fact, it’s flat-out gorgeous. Bravo indeed! 

Not to be confused with the Aux Montagnes négociant bottling, this comes from a high, estate-owned site (280 metres) on the Corgoloin-Ladoix border. La Montagne lies below Clos Magny (see below) and faces due east. The soils are light and dominated by sandy clay. In Camille’s words, the wine combines “the freshness and purity of Savigny with a little more depth and structure of the Côte de Nuits”. Really fine and perfumed yet with good depth, this has a cooler and slightly more structured persona than the Magny. Would love some time in the cellar—even if, like all of Matt and Camille’s 2022s, it’s already delicious. 

This tiny 0.6-hectare monopole above the Corgoloin cemetery was the jewel in Gilles Jourdan’s portfolio. Now, Camille Thiriet wears the crown. The vineyard takes its name from the owner in Napoleonic times, and part of the site’s claim to fame is the rare outcropping of blue marl that imbues its wines with expectational longevity. It’s the only vineyard in the area with these rare soils. Camille told us she has tasted wines from 1957 and 1979 with the previous owner and was blown away by the quality. The vines in Thiriet’s plot average 60 years old, and Camille’s inaugural vintage fermented with 40% bunches. This is Thiriet’s most serious and complex wine: compact with deep, dark cherry fruit, roasted brown spice notes and fine, powdery tannins. Give it a few years and wait for the fireworks. In terms of the reviews below, remember that a 93 from Jasper Morris for a “village-level” wine is extraordinary and well-deserved. 

Du Jardin is a blend of old-vine Aligoté Doré from vines near Pommard and a second, 90-year-old parcel in Corgoloin. Thiriet refers to the latter as ‘my garden’. The yield from these ancient vines is tiny, partly accounting for the aromatic intensity of this cuvée. The fruit is pressed together using a vertical press and raised in old oak (20% new) for nine months. A small yet decisive skin-contact component adds to the texture and wow factor.  It has super texture for the variety, as well as terrific length and delicious, powdery grip to close.

Camille’s négoce Bourgogne Blanc has been in the portfolio since her first vintage in 2016. The source can vary. Where 2021 was drawn from a plot of old-vine Chardonnay next to Comblanchien, this year’s release comes from two historic contacts in Puligny-Montrachet and Mâcon-Villages. Both vineyards are farmed organically, and Camille explains that the Mâcon fruit brings generosity while the Puligny side brings salinity and citrusy brightness. This is simply terrific Bourgogne with loads of character, good texture and a vibrant finish. Raised in 20% new oak, the two parcels were vinified separately before being married in tank for six months, 

This was the cuvée that started it all—the first wine that Thiriet released. Aux Montagnes is a four-hectare parcel directly below the Comblanchien château and quarry. Sited on the belly of the slope at 260 metres—where the Côte de Nuits 1er Crus normally sit (just saying)—there is only 25cm of clay-limestone before the vines tap directly into the bedrock. The clay here is quite red, with a high iron content. Thiriet works with a parcel of vines from Nicolas Potel’s holdings planted in the 1970s. She uses fewer bunches for this vineyard as the stems add a lot of tannins here. The result is a more fleshy, hedonistic style of Burgundy (yet still fine-boned!) with excellent density and waves of sweet fruit.