The best release yet under this label, the ’23 is 100% Sauvignon sourced from two vineyards in North Canterbury: the BioGro-certified Good Family Vineyard planted on Glasnevin Gravels, and the Fraher Vineyard planted on Omihi clay soils. Fruit from both sites is pressed as bunches before the juice ferments in tulip-shaped concrete vats and a few old barrels. This year, 8% skin fermentation and malolactic conversion naturally balance the Sauvignon’s piercing acidity while supporting its innate vibrancy. It’s a cracking release with a pulpy, multi-layered palate enlivened by mouth-watering acidity and tension. In many ways, it is the antithesis of what you might expect from a New Zealand savvy. It’s a don’t-miss for this unique wine.

This is our second allocation of this limited single-vineyard release, which sits alongside the Springs Chardonnay and Korimako Pinot Noir. The fruit for Springs is selectively harvested by hand from Sam and Mandy Weaver’s certified-organic, biodynamically farmed Churton vineyard. Huw Kinch says they chose this vineyard because it shows the heights Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc can reach. Churton sits 200 metres above sea level on a hillside between the Waihopai and Omaka Valleys. Pyramid Valley selected a parcel from the northeast-facing slope on loess above clay subsoil.

The grapes were picked on 31st March and fermented in concrete instead of oak this year (and all the better for it). The wine fermented with indigenous yeasts and was left on lees for eight months before a further four months’ aging in neutral oak. This is proper, grownup, unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc with contours of chalk surrounding a palate of sweet mint and juicy limes. Cracking texture, too, sculpted by mouth-watering energy and chalky drive. At once serene yet full of character—surely one of the most exciting and ambitious wines to come out of Marlborough’s southern hills, and doesn’t it work!

It tastes like Huw Kinch is on a personal mission to make the best dammed orange wine in the southern hemisphere. And he’s getting there! This year’s blend comprises 62% Pinot Gris, 23% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Pinot Noir (vinified as a white) and the merest seasoning of Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Viognier. The wine brings together four vineyards that are sustainably farmed, free of artificial chemicals or fertilisers: the Course-Choi Vineyard (previously Porters) on Mackenzies Road; the Good Family Vineyard and Fraher Vineyard on Omihi Clay soils in North Canterbury; and Pinot Noir from Pyramid Valley’s Lowburn vineyard in Central Otago.

The fruit is primarily vinified as bunches for 12 to 24 days in open-top fermenters with a small amount of ‘Blanc de Noir’ pressings added during fermentation. The wines age in concrete and old barrels for six months without sulphur. “We want to make an Orange that’s balanced between the tannins and fruit weight,” Kinch explains. “So finer, lighter tannins, something that matches our cooler climate.” Max Allen commented on this wine’s premier release: “Oh, if only all orange wines were as downright delicious and as beautiful as this.” It has only kicked on since then. So moreish and tangy with a juicy palate and dry, powdery close licked by Campari-like bitters. Tangerine dream!

The North Canterbury Chardonnay comes from two vineyards, principally Waipara Springs, where old-vine Mendoza Chardonnay grows on the Omihi clay soils. This year’s release includes one barrel of first-crop Chardonnay from Pyramid’s organic Central Otago farm in Lowburn. Hand-harvested several weeks later than in 2021, the must fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in 20% new French oak and 40% concrete ‘Tuilpes’ for 12 months before settling in concrete on light lees for another four months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s a super classy, flinty expression, with savoury cashew notes supported by ripe stone and citrus fruits tethered by underlying salinity. 

“This is extremely well-made, with sliced dried apples, apple tart, flint and matchstick as well as a hints of smoke. It’s medium-bodied with lovely fruit and a light bitterness that gives complexity and presence.” 95 points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com

Waipara’s Springs Vineyard is home to a single plot of 40-year-old vines, thought to be some of the—if not the—oldest in the country. The own-rooted Mendoza clone vines bury deep into the Omihi clay soils, and the age of the vines is far from the only attraction here. Sheltered by the Teviot hills from the prevailing cool easterly winds, the site’s relatively high midsummer warmth and low rainfall during the growing season make for a unique location in a marginal climate. The set of conditions has not been lost on Pyramid Valley, which has been leasing and managing this vineyard (without synthetic chemicals or fertilisers) since 2019.

Stomped by foot and spontaneously fermented with high solids in French oak, the 2022 aged for 12 months on full lees without sulphur. It was then racked and blended to concrete Tulipes, where it rested on fine lees for another six months. The result is awash with complex umami (salty/nutty/flinty) tones and compact stone-fruited presence seamlessly bolted onto Northern European verticality with an alluringly coiled finish. The Force is strong with this one.

This wine brings together three vineyards in North Canterbury: Three Sisters on Mackenzies Road in Waipara, planted on Rangitata gravels; the Porters family vineyard on Mackenzies Road in Waipara, planted in 2004 on Domett Clay soils on an east-facing slope; and the Springs vineyard planted in the early 1980s on Omihi clay soils.

The grapes were picked by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top fermenters, with 20% whole bunches included. The wine aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 12 months before settling in stainless steel on light lees for a further six months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the wine opens with a layered aroma of red plum pit and pretty, lifted floral, spice and dried herb notes. The palate is deep and silky, flecked with ripe plums, liquorice, and more dried-herb flavours perfectly framed by graceful, plush tannins. The finish has a lovely structure, which tapers to a long, savoury and moreish finish.

Pyramid Valley opened a new chapter of its story in 2018 when it purchased Jean and Roger Gibson’s highly regarded Lowburn Ferry vineyard in Central Otago’s Lowburn sub-region. Already winning national awards by 2003, the site was planted in 2000 on a gentle, north-facing slope with 30% own-rooted vines and a mix of clones—some of the oldest Pinot vines in Otago. A supplement of higher-density Pinot Noir was planted on a lower terrace in 2018 by Pyramid Valley’s biodynamic specialist, Nick Paulin, who lives on and manages the property.

Now renamed Manata, paying homage to a romantic Māori legend of this region, soils are predominantly loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. 2021 was the final year of organic conversion; as of 2022, the site has been certified organic by BioGro NZ. There are two wines made from this vineyard. The Manata Pinot is a selection of blocks, while a single-parcel Pinot Noir called Snake Tongue now forms part of the Botanical Selection.

The grapes were hand-picked and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top concrete and oak fermenters, with 15% whole bunches included. The wine aged in French oak barrels (25% new) for 12 months before settling in concrete and wooden cuves on light lees for a further six months. All parties involved are clearly besotted by this “special” vineyard whose wine manifests the dark berry plushness and energy of Central Otago, allied to silky structure and impressive ageing potential.