You can blame it on the Mosel. I’m sure each of us can trace our love of wine back to what Andrew Jefford has termed “a single moment of astonishment”. For former wine-buyer Barnaby Tuttle, it was a tasting of 14 racy, low-alcohol, mineral-driven German Rieslings in the early 2000s. And while he listed every one of those wines, Tuttle’s epiphany would have far more significant ramifications than his new wine list. In 2005, Barnaby and Olga planted their first vineyard, Alsea, on a friend’s farm just outside the AVA boundary of the Willamette Valley on the eastern flank of the Coast Range. Just 30 kilometres from the ocean, this parcel of land was considered at the time too marginal to plant a successful vineyard. Oregon pioneer David Lett heard a similar argument when he planned to plant Willamette’s first vines in 1965. He was told he would be frosted out every spring, rained out every autumn and get athlete’s foot up to his knees. Today, the Tuttles’ stubborn insistence on planting Alsea has proven a masterstroke. Alongside Alsea, Teutonic works with several organic or sustainably farmed sites throughout Willamette Valley. Instead of searching for tried and trusted terroirs, Barnaby and Olga have hunted out old, dry-farmed vineyards in Oregon’s coolest and highest places. One such site is the misty Laurel Vineyard atop Bald Peak, Willamette’s highest, at a lofty 381 metres. Here, slow-ripening and longer hang time provide Tuttle with the intense fruit with high acidity that forms the blueprint of his taut, pure, crystalline style. In Teutonic’s Portland city cellar, a vineyard-activated pied de cuve kick-starts each fermentation. Almost all the wines are raised in old oak barrels without additions except for a tiny nip of sulphur to keep everything bright and squeaky clean. Keeping with the Germanic theme, all the wines are bottled, unfiltered, into their distinctive Alsatian flutes. Perhaps fitting for a state whose motto is Alis volat propriis—She flies with her own wings—Teutonic’s stimulating, vivid, electric wines have lit up the Oregon wine scene. They can be found on the lists of the finest restaurants across the US, and if there is justice, we suspect the same will soon be said of Australia. Prost!