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Domaine Theulot Juillot

Mercurey Rising: Classy, Wallet-Friendly Burgundy
Domaine Theulot Juillot
We came across this fine producer, thanks to Vincent Dureuil. Dureuil is one of the finest growers in Burgundy, so when he told us he loved Theulot Juillot’s wines and preferred them to better-known addresses of the Côte Chalonnaise, we didn’t waste time getting in touch. Owners Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot are lovely, humble vignerons. From their base in Mercurey–one of the beating hearts of the Côte Chalonnaise–they craft a range of red and white Burgundies full of heart and soul.
 
All quality practices you would expect from a Bibendum grower are celebrated here, from high-quality vine genetics and rootstocks to organic viticulture and low yields. Destemming, gentle extractions and moderate use of new oak showcase the graceful side of the appellation. Jasper Morris MW notes in Inside Burgundy that “the red wines of Mercurey can be the deepest, firmest and richest reds of the Côte Chalonnaise”. You can certainly feel that intensity in Theulot’s wines, yet the reds carry all the vibrancy, charm and character that make Burgundy the promised land for Pinot Noir.
 
While we have previously focused on the domaine’s reds, last year we tasted the full range of white wines (and could not resist). Just 20% of Mercurey vineyards are devoted to white grapes and it is thanks to the quality of wines like Theulot’s that Chardonnay has been making up good ground. These are engaging whites of natural generosity tempered by lively freshness and a distinct salty-mineral tone. As was the case for the rest of the region, 2022 was a terrific year for Mercurey, and Nathalie Theulot believes this year’s wines to be their finest yet. They are certainly the most impressive we have tasted. And, while much of Burgundy has entered a complicated relationship with value, the pricing here remains very reasonable. We recommend everything without hesitation.
 
PS) This grower’s name is not that easy to pronounce. Try “tew-lo jwee-yo.” Or say it however you like–it’s the wine in the bottle that counts!

The Wines

Nathalie Theulot Crémant de Bourgogne NV

Nathalie Theulot Crémant de Bourgogne NV

The domaine made its first crémant in 2004, and to this day, it remains a 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs sourced from a parcel of red Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise. It is labelled Nathalie Theulot and is one of a small number of négociant wines made at the domaine. The style is squarely focused on drinkability and refreshment, and to this end, the base wine is fermented in inox tanks before going to bottle. Unlike her Mercurey whites, Nathalie Theulot vinifies the juice at low temperatures (14°C) to preserve as much delicate red fruit aromatics as possible. Bottled with minimal dosage—ranging between 5 and 7 g/L—it is bursting with aromas of ripe orchard fruit, white flowers and warm pastry flavours. It’s a lively, medium-bodied style with mouthwatering balance, a fleshy core and lovely chalky grip on the close. If there is one gripe, it is too easy to drink! As the Burgundians like to say: better a good crémant than a bad Champagne! 

Nathalie Theulot Crémant de Bourgogne NV
Nathalie Theulot Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Blanc 2022

Nathalie Theulot Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Blanc 2022

Nathalie Theulot’s Côte Chalonnaise white is usually a domaine bottling drawn from vines in Mercurey. In 2022, hailstorms reduced yields by 60%, meaning this year’s wine includes a measure of purchased grapes. It’s a delicious, pulpy white that wafts from the glass with buttercup, fleshy stone fruit and citrus. The palate is attractively punchy and succulent, its’ satiny texture flecked with stone fruits, rock melon and sweet orange with a nip of reduction tying everything neatly together. The finish is bright and tangy with lingering grapefruit pith and smoky spice flavours. Value-conscious Burgundy hunters will find satisfaction here. 

Nathalie Theulot Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Blanc 2022
Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Les Chenaults Blanc 2022

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Les Chenaults Blanc 2022

The Chenaults climat is located west of the village and occupies a mid-slope position with a full southern orientation. The clay-limestone soils are rich in marl, providing lovely balance between tension, enveloping texture, chewy phenolics and spicy lift. To accentuate the site’s limestone freshness, Juillot raises three-quarters of this cuvée in stainless steel vat. It’s a bright, generous Burgundy packed with golden orchard fruit, sappy pine-like freshness and some iodine and almond complexity. You can expect a layered, fleshy palate—with nice volume but no fat—pulled taut by citrus freshness and a kick of peach blossom and bitter orange peeping through on the finish. 

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Les Chenaults Blanc 2022
Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martins Blanc 2022

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martins Blanc 2022

Les Champs Martins borders Les Combins to the west and has historically been considered one of Mercurey’s finest vineyards. All the village’s top growers are represented here, and Theulot Juillot holds two south-facing parcels of mature Pinot Noir. Roughly 20% of the vineyard is planted to Chardonnay, of which Theulot Juillot works with a small parcel of 35-year-old vines on grey Oxfordian marlstone at the western-exposed top of the vineyard. The wine ferments naturally in oak barrels (30% new). Nathalie Juillot believes Les Champs Martin to be the best terroir for whites in the village, and this release backs up that claim. It’s a sleek, chalky, textured white with archetypal Mercurey notes of white liquorice and florals with salty, mineral freshness keeping the palate well-proportioned and bright. Very smart. 

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martins Blanc 2022
Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Saumonts Blanc 2022

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Saumonts Blanc 2022

Theulot Juillot’s is one of the rare whites from Les Saumonts, which abuts Les Puillets but is exposed a little more to the south. This 1er Cru is surrounded by forest and occupies a high position on the hillside (between 300 and 325 meters above sea level) that dominates the northwestern part of the village. The reddish clay-limestone soils on the steep hill below the hilltop (sous-mont) are dotted with small fossils; here is a white from a red terroir. The mass selection vines were planted in 1998, and Nathalie Theulot raised this wine in one-third new oak barrels. There’s more body here (than in the Les Champs Martin) and a similar tight weave of texture and linear freshness. There’s a wonderful interplay of layered, fleshy texture—with notes of citrus peel, stone fruits and brown spices—salty freshness and mouthwatering acidity. 

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru Les Saumonts Blanc 2022
Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Château Mipont 2022

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Château Mipont 2022

Nathalie Theulot believes this fine lieu-dit, nestled in the heart of the village, to be worthy of 1er Cru status. The site faces south and is naturally protected from the prevailing winds. It’s a vineyard that always delivers impressive density and ample flavour to go with juicy structure. Unlike much of Mercurey, these are mass-selection vines. They were planted in 1963 by Theulot’s grandfather, making them some of the oldest in the village. The grapes are fully destemmed before a five-day ‘cold soak’, and the wine is fermented wild in a vat before aging for 12 months in 20% new oak barrels. 

Quite Rully-like in elegant frame, it fans out with a glade of sweet bramble fruit, earth and spice, while elegant, powdery tannins and bright freshness weave through the deep-pile texture. When you factor in the price and remember that many in the Côte d’Or charge similar, or even higher, prices for Bourgogne-level wines, it delivers value with bells on. With its engaging combination of depth and brightness, it has the construction to partner with a wide range of dishes, including rich duck and grilled meats.

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Château Mipont 2022
Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru La Cailloute 2022

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru La Cailloute 2022

This 1.73-hectare monopole vineyard lies above Les Croichots and was originally acquired by Nathalie’s grandfather. The domaine makes red and white from this terroir, the latter from a band of grey marlstone that abuts the forest at the top of the vineyard. The red is drawn from two parcels on thickish red clay over hard oolitic limestone. The first parcel, planted in 1979, brings finesse, while the second—planted a year later—delivers structure and colour.

The sum of these parts is this domaine’s most elegant and sophisticated red.  Jasper Morris MW writes that this wine is “noted for its variations on a theme of cherry flavours”. In 2022, these cherry flavours are sweet and flowing, complemented by succulent freshness, svelte, seamless tannins and juicy, balanced length worthy of the domaine’s top red. It’s little wonder Nathalie Theulot calls this cuvée mon chouchou, an affectionate French nickname for someone dear to you. 

Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru La Cailloute 2022

★ ★ “Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot took over the family estate in 1987. The patient replanting proved judicious, the wines gained in finesse and elegance. The ploughed vines, the absence of pesticides, the sorting, the whole harvest measured: everything is done to obtain pure, full and delicious juices. Their regularity made it possible to obtain the second star. As for the prices, they are still reasonable.” La Revue du Vin de France, Guide Vert 2023

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