Three words to capture Michael Downer’s new flagship wines? Try class, vibrancy and deliciousness. For the first time, the Rocket Chardonnay, Apollo Pinot Noir and Orion Syrah are single-site wines from estate-owned vines. The Rocket and Apollo are sourced from specially selected blocks in Michael Downer’s brilliant Lenswood vineyard, while the Orion is drawn from a small parcel of mature vines in the family’s Oakbank vineyard. From the last in a string of cooler vintages, a low-cropping year with long hangtimes, in Michael’s words, the Rocket Chardonnay shows “elegance and restraint, but also the unmistakable power and drive the Lenswood site delivers, even in cooler years.” That Lenswood gets a touch more sunshine than some neighbouring subregions also allowed Downer’s to pick the Pinot Noir at pinpoint ripeness. As has recently been the case, bunches take more of a backseat again, allowing Downer to dial into the fruit, site and season and build the savoury tannin he loves. Then, there’s the Syrah, already the Adelaide Hills benchmark for this variety, and one that adds savoury, sinewy dimensions to its core of delicious dark cherry fruit. Drilling down, the Orion Syrah is picked from a small parcel of mature vines on thinner, more gravelly soils at the top of the Landau block, giving smaller berries and bunches. The cool nights and altitude give this fruit extra spice, elegance and restraint. “I don’t know what it is about this 2022; it’s dangerous,” says Michael. “It can disappear pretty quick.” And to that, we can attest. Simply, a fine, fine release from this Adelaide Hills star.