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Théo Dancer 2023

The Latest Releases from a Gifted Wunderkind
Théo Dancer 2023

There is a lot of young talent in Burgundy today, but, to be frank, we do not know of a more gifted or driven young grower than Théo Dancer. He produces stunning (and better and better) wines from his small family estate (Domaine Vincent Dancer), where he took over from the 2020 vintage. On top of that, Théo runs a trailblazing new project in the Mâcon-Bray area called Roc Breïa (stay tuned for the latest releases) while also establishing his own micro-négoce, sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. It’s this latter project that we offer today. 


Théo has always told us that this project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers (he only sources from vineyards where he respects, and can be sure of, the quality of the work). At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards.


The portfolio comprises a magnificent Bourgogne Aligoté from Meursault, a super-pure Savagnin from the Jura, a lacy, elegant, floral Beaujolais, and a beautifully perfumed, stunningly refined Grenache from vines near Cairanne. Yes, you read it correctly: a renowned Burgundy producer making Grenache! And a super example at that. The progress in these wines has been phenomenal. Rest assured, the 2023s are the best release so far. The grapes are sourced from a now permanent roster of trusted growers and friends, and Dancer retains direct oversight of harvesting and advises during the growing season where necessary. 


The 2023 release only further supports the claims made above as to the talent of Théo Dancer. All the wines are in his signature minimalist, pure, perfumed, fine-boned style, albeit with their own regional personalities. The largest cuvée, by the way, runs to a total production of 300 cases, but most volumes are far smaller! Anyway, we get only between 7 and 15 dozen of each cuvée, so they will not last! And with 2024 predicted to be one of the smallest French vintages of the past century, who knows what we’ll get next year. Jump in now if you don’t want to miss out.


Dancer uses various fermentation and aging vessels, including ceramic, glass Wineglobes and different-sized casks. He intervenes as little as possible: all fermentations are native; malolactic conversion occurs naturally, and there is no bâtonnage, fining, or filtration. Total sulphur ends up in the low 15-20 mg/L range, but the wines are absolutely crystalline. These wines are made at the domaine cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet and, therefore, the non-Burgundy wines carry the Vin de France designation (the wines need to be made in their region to be labelled according to their original AOC—simply not practical). 

The Wines

Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023

Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023

From 2022, Dancer started working with a plot of organic, old-vine Aligoté in Meursault, and the quality has shot through the roof. It’s made the same way as the Vincent Dancer whites, with the fruit fermenting naturally with all its lees. There is no stirring, and the wine matures in large-format barrels over winter before resting in vat. It was racked just once and bottled unfiltered.

The 2023 is an absolute stunner, reaching heights that are extremely rare with this variety (and we import a few good ones!). It’s pulp-textured yet bright, loaded with golden apple, ripe pear and white apricot, plus a delicious leesy touch. There’s lovely freshness and chalky drive to go with the generosity and complexity of the fruit. Simply great Aligoté.

"Super wine here. Feels very refined, compact but with plenty of fresh fruit character and nuance from yeasty savouriness. Very briny mineral-charged too. Some waxiness in texture, extreme persistence of pulpy grapefruity tang and zing, with a front running of green apple, light gingery spice, green almond and tart lime. There’s a sense of true pedigree here. And crikey, it’s just damn delicious."
95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023
Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 (1500ml)

From 2022, Dancer started working with a plot of organic, old-vine Aligoté in Meursault, and the quality has shot through the roof. It’s made the same way as the Vincent Dancer whites, with the fruit fermenting naturally with all its lees. There is no stirring, and the wine matures in large-format barrels over winter before resting in vat. It was racked just once and bottled unfiltered.

The 2023 is an absolute stunner, reaching heights that are extremely rare with this variety (and we import a few good ones!). It’s pulp-textured yet bright, loaded with golden apple, ripe pear and white apricot, plus a delicious leesy touch. There’s lovely freshness and chalky drive to go with the generosity and complexity of the fruit. Simply great Aligoté.

"Super wine here. Feels very refined, compact but with plenty of fresh fruit character and nuance from yeasty savouriness. Very briny mineral-charged too. Some waxiness in texture, extreme persistence of pulpy grapefruity tang and zing, with a front running of green apple, light gingery spice, green almond and tart lime. There’s a sense of true pedigree here. And crikey, it’s just damn delicious."
95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 (1500ml)
Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023

Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023

Ouillé (topped up). Dancer sources his Savagnin from a conscientious farmer in Rotalier, the same town as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay soils over Bajocian limestone subsoil. Dancer wants to emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes, so the fruit is pressed directly to large oak barrels with no racking until the completion of fermentation, and the barrels are kept topped up throughout maturation. This is a fantastic rendition of this wine. It’s citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, yet there is also a lot going on. With air, notes of lemon curd, ginger, spiced grapefruit and hints of pine sap emerge. Great drive, length and finesse; this is a talented Burgundy grower’s take on Jura. Magic. Don’t serve it cold, and don’t be scared to decant it if you’re serving it young.

"It offers up scents of preserved lemon, light chicken stock notes, faint sea spray, a tonic water lift, some hay and straw notes, a bit of old wood character shows through. A waxiness and some grip in texture, plush lemon curd meets very tart pink grapefruit zing with some more chicken stock elements and, again, a bit of some musty wood character through the finish. A clatter of saline minerality lingers. Nice wine, perhaps missing some pep, but I reckon a good decant would make this very pleasing to drink slowly."
92 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023
Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023 (1500ml)

Ouillé (topped up). Dancer sources his Savagnin from a conscientious farmer in Rotalier, the same town as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay soils over Bajocian limestone subsoil. Dancer wants to emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes, so the fruit is pressed directly to large oak barrels with no racking until the completion of fermentation, and the barrels are kept topped up throughout maturation. This is a fantastic rendition of this wine. It’s citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, yet there is also a lot going on. With air, notes of lemon curd, ginger, spiced grapefruit and hints of pine sap emerge. Great drive, length and finesse; this is a talented Burgundy grower’s take on Jura. Magic. Don’t serve it cold, and don’t be scared to decant it if you’re serving it young.

"It offers up scents of preserved lemon, light chicken stock notes, faint sea spray, a tonic water lift, some hay and straw notes, a bit of old wood character shows through. A waxiness and some grip in texture, plush lemon curd meets very tart pink grapefruit zing with some more chicken stock elements and, again, a bit of some musty wood character through the finish. A clatter of saline minerality lingers. Nice wine, perhaps missing some pep, but I reckon a good decant would make this very pleasing to drink slowly."
92 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2023 (1500ml)
Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023

Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023

Théo Dancer’s Gamay is sourced from an organic grower in Chiroubles. The winemaking remains the same as previous releases, with the grapes fully destemmed and the wine fermented and matured in amphora and old cask. It’s interesting to note that Dancer’s fellow Burgundian, Benoît Moreau, also makes Chiroubles using a similar, non-carbonic technique. The belief is that a longer, ‘Pinot-like’ fermentation allows the wine to transmit more of its site. Either way, the result is impressive, with lovely purity and gorgeous aromatics. In simple terms, this is an infusion-style Gamay, with a bright, red-fruited personality, all kinds of berries and floral notes but with ink and anise kicking on the finish to remind us, along with the length and the fine powdery tannins, that this is a serious wine! About as classy and fine as Beaujolais gets.

"Slurpy texture with a good deal of crunch and crispness at its rims. All the tart, red cherry vibrancy, haze and crunch of proper cranberry juice, a touch of white mushroom, smoked paprika spice, light, charry wood gentle as a seasoning. A riff of silty tannin, terracotta-like, finish the wine, albeit not too drying. Just so. A distinctly elegant feel."
93 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023
Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer’s Gamay is sourced from an organic grower in Chiroubles. The winemaking remains the same as previous releases, with the grapes fully destemmed and the wine fermented and matured in amphora and old cask. It’s interesting to note that Dancer’s fellow Burgundian, Benoît Moreau, also makes Chiroubles using a similar, non-carbonic technique. The belief is that a longer, ‘Pinot-like’ fermentation allows the wine to transmit more of its site. Either way, the result is impressive, with lovely purity and gorgeous aromatics. In simple terms, this is an infusion-style Gamay, with a bright, red-fruited personality, all kinds of berries and floral notes but with ink and anise kicking on the finish to remind us, along with the length and the fine powdery tannins, that this is a serious wine! About as classy and fine as Beaujolais gets.

"Slurpy texture with a good deal of crunch and crispness at its rims. All the tart, red cherry vibrancy, haze and crunch of proper cranberry juice, a touch of white mushroom, smoked paprika spice, light, charry wood gentle as a seasoning. A riff of silty tannin, terracotta-like, finish the wine, albeit not too drying. Just so. A distinctly elegant feel."
93 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2023 (1500ml)
Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023

Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023

Théo Dancer, like his father, is a big fan of Grenache. The vineyard he works with is in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes (between Orange and Montélimar) near Cairanne. It’s a beautiful, shaded vineyard that looks out to Mont Ventoux, and the soils are littered with smooth galets roulés (the rounded stones that dominate so much of the southern Rhône). The vineyard has been managed organically for years—a key attraction for Théo.

This 2023 is an engaging whole-bunch Grenache through a Burgundian lens. The fruit was harvested in late August and fermented as whole clusters, and the wine was raised in used 456-litre barrels. The stems are perfectly integrated, bringing freshness and lift to the wine’s ripe, fleshy-yet-floral core. Expect a Pinot-lover’s style of Grenache, with lots of orange rind, crushed blackberry and wild rose notes among the aromas, and a fleshy yet fine, super-floral palate with powdery tannins in abundance. A remarkable and unique interpretation of Grenache! 

"It has a pinosity, that’s the first port of call of commentary. Satiny texture, light weight friskiness, red fruited through perfume and palate, dusting of cinnamon, cardamom, with sprigs of dried herbs and a little lift of alpine florals. A sheath of ultra fine, gently earthy tannin lends a skin and draws the wine long. Poised but succulent, so fresh and energetic, purity, presence and an experience to drink."
96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023
Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer, like his father, is a big fan of Grenache. The vineyard he works with is in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes (between Orange and Montélimar) near Cairanne. It’s a beautiful, shaded vineyard that looks out to Mont Ventoux, and the soils are littered with smooth galets roulés (the rounded stones that dominate so much of the southern Rhône). The vineyard has been managed organically for years—a key attraction for Théo. 

This 2023 is an engaging whole-bunch Grenache through a Burgundian lens. The fruit was harvested in late August and fermented as whole clusters, and the wine was raised in used 456-litre barrels. The stems are perfectly integrated, bringing freshness and lift to the wine’s ripe, fleshy-yet-floral core. Expect a Pinot-lover’s style of Grenache, with lots of orange rind, crushed blackberry and wild rose notes among the aromas, and a fleshy yet fine, super-floral palate with powdery tannins in abundance. A remarkable and unique interpretation of Grenache! 

"It has a pinosity, that’s the first port of call of commentary. Satiny texture, light weight friskiness, red fruited through perfume and palate, dusting of cinnamon, cardamom, with sprigs of dried herbs and a little lift of alpine florals. A sheath of ultra fine, gently earthy tannin lends a skin and draws the wine long. Poised but succulent, so fresh and energetic, purity, presence and an experience to drink."
96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2023 (1500ml)

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